Canada – Day Five: Thru Stanley Park to Whistler

Victoria on Vancouver Island reminds me very much of the Isle of Wight – a beautiful area peppered with tourism hotspots. Plus it’s on an island… in case you missed that point.

Back thru Vancouver

Another large and healthy breakfast at Marketa’s introduces us to more people from around the world; this time Birmingham, UK and a foreign woman who I couldn’t fathom where she originated from. I can usually tell after a few lines of speech roughly where someone is from on the planet, but this woman mystified me. She sat with the Swiss couple who were still staying, and spoke to them in French, but her mother tongue eluded me, although I’m fairly sure she was European… which is probably why she could speak French, Jode.

A half hour drive back to the ferry (once more aboard the Spirit of Vancouver) and then we’re heading thru the city of Vancouver again, to it’s northwest corner and a place called Stanley Park.

Downtown VC from Stanley Park

Now, whenever I mentioned that I was about to holiday in Canada, a couple of people told me that I should go to Stanley Park – and they were right to recommend it.

Opened in 1888, it sits on 404 hectacres of land and is bigger than New York’s Central Park but a lot smaller than London’s Richmond Park, but Richmond doesn’t have the sights that this place does. As you walk around you get a panoramic scope of downtown Vancouver and the Pacific Ocean that surrounds the park.

Covered in approximately half a million trees (and there were some big bastards there, too!) Stanley Park receives roughly 8 million visitors a year. While we were there during the end of season in early October, the place was still covered with people, and lots of joggers and cyclists using the 8.8km seawall.

The famous totems at Stanley Park

Stanlay Park is also home to the Vancouver Aquarium, and if you read my previous blog about the Undersea Gardens, then believe me when I tell you that the Aquarium pisses on the Garden from a great, great height.

Opened in 1956, the Aquarium is a self-supporting, non-profit organisation set in the heart of Stanley Park and is a centre for animal rehabilitation, marine research and conservation. The entrance to the AquariumIt’s animal occupants include Pacific White-sided dolphins, beluga whales, 300 species of fish, 30,000 invertebrates, 56 species of amphibians and reptiles, and around 60 mammals and birds!

The variety of animals on display was awesome, particularly the more lively ones such as the dolphins and whales, but a giant octopus was also very impressive – especially as it had stuck itself to the glass! Cue lots of people taking pictures of each other with their heads surrounded by tentacles!

After watching the baluga show we entered a cinematic room which promised a 4D experience. Wearing 3d glasses we sat down to watch a BBC Planet earth programme about the local sealife and were subjected to sprays of water, rumbling seats, blasts of air, and finally a poke in the back just as a 3D barracuda leapt from the screen – provoking a yell of ‘MOTHER FUCKER’ from me… followed by complete silence as every parent and child cast their iron gazes at me… and there were a lot of people around my sorry ass…

Jumping in the SUV we set off for Whistler and were treated to close up views of mountains, bays, trees and rocks before stopping at a mini-village half-way up the mountains in the middle of nowhere. It was home to one of the neatest looking supermarkets I’ve ever seen; but, alas, no twinkies… the search continues…A baluga whale

Whistler is beautiful, as suggested by the drive there, but the actual resort itself is perfectly picturesque. A shame it wasn’t covered in snow when we arrived, but there are plenty of postcards and pictures around to show you how stunning it looks most of the year.

Situated in the Southern Pacific ranges of the Coast Mountains, BC, it has a permenant population of just under 10,000 people which swells often due to all of the workers who travel in every day to work there. Two million people a year visit Whistler, and – once we’d had a minor panic about being locked out of our hotel room before we’d even got in – we became another two of those visitors.

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Canada – Day Two…

…and we’re sat at a ferry terminal waiting to go to an island.

No, we haven’t taken a massive wrong turn and ended up in Portsmouth to go back to the Isle of Wight (still confused the fuck out of Jo), but we’re actually at a ferry port in Tsawwassen, British Columbia, and we’re heading for Vancouver Island.

Entering the Gulf Islands towards Vancouver Island.

The ferry port is massive and – as far as I can tell – it has three docks for ferries; one to Nanaimo, one to the Gulf Islands (including Vancouver Island), and then a multitude of different routes to several different ports in BC. The cost of our trip is $75 (one way) for both of us and the SUV. That’s approximately £40 for a 1 hour 45 minute ferry journey in comfort on a massive boat. Take note Wightlink Ferries!

Once on the boat, for the first time in my life I feel myself becoming a snob.

A ferry snob.

The Spirit of Vancouver is 167.5m long, weighs 18,747.44 tonnes, and travels at a speed of 19.5knots (roughly) using 21,394bhp! It carries 470 cars and has a passenger and crew capacity of 2100, and to entertain all these people there are shops, cafes, a kids area with tv and toys and a private lounge for those wishing to pay $12 to sit up front and receive a complimentary paper and meal. It also took us all of 15mins to fully load the ferry and leave for Swartz Bay, making a mockery of the IOW’s services.

The journey lasts almost two hours, but the scenery is such that it flies past and you’re left wanting to go around the islands again. Crossing the Georgia Strait you can see the Gulf Islands through the mist ahead, and as you approach you can see heavily tree-lined hills which often rise to impressive heights.As the Spirit of Vancouver passes between the islands of Galliano and Mayne a bay opens up before us and the Pender and Salt Spring Islands’ present themselves.

Seals occasionally break the surface of the water, and my attention becomes caught between trying to spot them and gazing at some of the houses that peek through the trees and dot the shorelines of each island. (I urge you to check this one out – 1601 Treasure Crescent, $949,000).

A fishing trawler breezes past us and I can see several oil tankers in another bay, and I find myself completely unsurprised when I overhear someone nearby me comment that people who live in the Gulf Islands very seldom move to another city or area. The views are spectacular.

We disembark at Swartz Bay and it’s a 25mile drive south to Victoria.
It takes us almost an hour to get there through the traffic, and at the end of the hold-up we see a very glum-looking man watching his car being towed away as a policeman writes him a ticket.

Our first task in Victoria is to find somewhere to stay (we’re so unorganised), and the pamphlet Jo picked up on the boat recommended a place called Marketa’s B&B. We found it on Superior Street with very little trouble and were soon booked in.

Marketa was very friendly and it turned out she used to live 50miles away from us in the UK, along the coast in Brighton! And I feel that there must be an honoury mention for the guests’ lounge, complete with old style tv and VHS player surrounded by old tapes! Very vintage and rustic!

Vintage.

After putting our luggage in our room we strolled into town (which took under 5mins), but as it was late in the day everything was in the process of closing so we scouted around and loosely planned out our next day’s activities.

We found an old bank converted into a Scottish-themed bar… so that’s fish and chips in a Scottish pub, while booked into a B&B owned by a woman from Brighton. Who says the world isn’t a small place?

Inside the Bard and Banker

I feel I should mention the barmaids of the Bard and Banker. They wear kilts and most of them look like they’re auditioning for Hooters. It’s now my favourite bar in the world. Shame it’s 4500miles away!

Now, if you’ll excuse me, my body clock is completely fritzed so I gotta hit the sack.

But only after I’ve jumped in the rooms’ jacuzzi!

Jacuzzi in the house! Or rather, room.